‘We seek to achieve a cool European den,’ the website declares, somewhat bafflingly.

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But just as they begin to fade, the cavalry arrives. Macaroni cheese, its top lavished with burnished breadcrumbs, the sauce joyously thick, lustily stringy and splendidly unfloury too.

And sausage roll, more good pastry, with fistfuls of chips, a sort of baby brother to that wonderful pâté en croûte. My father eats bream, properly fresh and properly cooked.

Long wait aside, this is exactly the sort of cooking you crave on a chilly autumnal night. And I wouldn’t mind coming back.’ Flying visit to Australia, to promote new show Family Food Fight. Lunch of oysters, kingfish ceviche and spanner crab pasta at the ever great North Bondi Fish.

A skilled and steady hand behind the stoves, at prices little more than the local pub. Then dinner of pipis, John Dory, and 128-day aged beef rib, all cooked over coals, at Firedoor, one of the best restaurants I’ve been to in years.

Khloé Kardashian is six months pregnant, but that doesn’t stop her from hitting the gym.

The Revenge Body host, 33, shared her “exact pregnancy workout” on her website on Friday, January 12.

Dinner at seven (and last orders at eight), prised from a cracked leatherette menu, in a sorry sitting room clad in yellowing chintz, with all the atmosphere of a municipal morgue.

A joyless shuffle into the dining room, while draining the last watery dregs of a warm G&T, to face a starter of tinned fruit juice.

We order pâté en croûte, a great fat slab of luscious meat, shot through with a thick seam of gentle black pudding, surrounded by a thick layer of wobbling jelly and cloaked in magnificent pastry. It’s like a pork pie that’s trained at Le Gavroche.

And is served with sharp piccalilli, a smear of mustard and a blob of proper brown sauce. There’s a board with good salami, and silken ham, plus pickles and slices of pert pear.

My father eats crayfish cocktail, reassuringly old-school, no ironic nudge or retro winks – just fat commas of crustacean drenched in piquant pink sauce, splayed across a bed of shredded iceberg. A strong start, only let down by a sudden lull in service. Plates take an age to be cleared, and as we await part two, the children start to wriggle and fidget and moan and groan.